*整理不易，转载请标明出处，谢谢！

不知道这个文章是说什么的，可以看这一篇：【香水】芦丹氏的暗黑文案从哪来（1）——【黑标系列】

终于开始来到卤蛋家的高端系列了，这个摩天楼系列我愿称之为芦丹氏最佳圈钱系列，因为其实大量系列成员都来自原本的黑标或者吊钟，但瓶子变丑且全线整齐划一，甚至连液体颜色都看不到了，多买几瓶你找香水还要趴在标签上看，实现了颜值和性价比的全面倒退：D

但是这样一个系列，曾经的经典之作如松林少女和忽必烈都被搬了进去，让人连屏蔽都做不到……

只存在于摩天楼系列的香水就不额外放图了，它们全都长一个样子；不过对于原本的黑标或者吊钟系列成员，这里放了它们曾经存在的原系列的图片，欣赏一下逝去的美丽吧_(:з」∠)_

Gratte-ciel 摩天楼系列

Designed by Serge Lutens as a selection of signature perfumes, this collection’s skyscraper bottles are inspired by the New York skyline of the 20s and 30s.

In sleek lacquered black with bevelled edges as sharp as the tip of the Chrysler Building, this emblematic bottle is influenced by the Art Deco style, embodying a new modernity and the avant-garde of a style that grazes the sky.

由塞尔日·卢滕斯设计的标志性香水，该系列的摩天大楼瓶的灵感来自于20年代和30年代的纽约天际线。在光滑的漆黑色与斜面边缘如克莱斯勒大厦的顶端，这个象征性的瓶子受到装饰艺术风格的影响，体现了一种天马行空的新的现代性和前卫的风格。

【树脂/琥珀调】

LA PROIE POUR L'OMBRE 鲁比诺 2010

香调：木质馥奇香调

前调：雪松柑橘艾蒿

中调：薰衣草老鹳草干草没药皮革

后调：香根草檀香木橡木烟草

属性：中性香

标签：草本浓郁清新辛辣木香绿叶

创作灵感

La proie pour l'ombre, an improbable, paradoxal and elegant perfume in Serge Lutens' Gratte-ciel collection. Serge Lutens reflects on the well-known French expression La Proie pour l’ombre, to create a fable on those torn apart by impossible choices. Plagued by a lack of resolution, they take refuge in a world of illusions, a hall of mirrors where they chase after shadows rather than substance. Tender vanilla or carnal leather, you can't trade one for the other! Like two sides of a coin, they are diametrically opposed, yet their fates are irrevocably entwined.

这是一种不可思议的、矛盾而优雅的香水。Serge Lutens反思了著名的法语表达方式，创造了一个关于那些被不可能的选择所撕裂的人的寓言。由于缺乏分辨率，他们躲在一个幻想的世界里，一个镜子的大厅里，他们追逐阴影而不是物质。温柔的香草或肉体皮革，你不能用一种换另一种！就像硬币的两面一样，它们却截然相反，但它们的命运却不可逆转地交织在一起。

诗文

"Oh Prophet, within you, you bear his cross, a blood other than yours runs through your veins! Cursed by this duality within me that has doomed me to chase after shadows rather than substance. The tender caress of vanilla and the cracking whiplash of leather, combined in a single emotion, to reflect the ambiguity evoked by the two sides of the same fable. Serge Lutens"

“哦，先知，在你里面，你带着他的十字架，除了你的血流过你的血管！被我内心的这种二元性所诅咒，它注定我要追逐阴影而不是实质。香草的温柔的爱抚和皮革的开裂的拍打，结合在一种情感中，反映了同一寓言的双方所唤起的模糊性。Serge Lutens”

FILLE EN AIGUILLES 松林少女（高跟鞋少女）2009

*原方瓶黑标系列

香调：木质东方调

气味：香根草月桂叶松树辛香料焚香冷杉干果

属性：中性香

标签：木香浓郁树脂松柏烟熏清新辛辣

创作灵感

Sunny, resplendent, its resinous sap leads us to the foot of a pine tree full of cicadas. In this arid landscape resounds the endless stridulations of these insects with their golden elytra: chi-chi-chi-chi-chi-chi-chi-chi-chi … The latest chi-chi of Parisian girls in (pine) needle heels!

阳光灿烂、光彩灿烂的树脂汁液把我们带到一棵满是蝉的松树脚下。在这片干旱的土地中，这些昆虫的金色鞘翅环绕着无休止的叫声。最新的巴黎女孩穿着（松木）针头高跟鞋！

诗文

"Pine needles. Resin, sunshine, cicadas and the shade of tall pine trees. The needles prick your feet, but a stand of pines by the beach is a wonderful thing!"

“松针。树脂、阳光、蝉鸣和高大松树的树荫下。针刺着你的脚，但海滩边的一片松树真是太棒了！”

（新品）PÉRILLEUSEMENT VÔTRE 危机四伏 2020

香调：木质东方调

气味：玫瑰沉香(乌木)

属性：中性香

创作灵感

Destiny sometimes has a way of playing tricks on us by putting us in extreme situations. Must we then disown the past which has shaped us? Oud and rose combine to give us their answer.

命运有时会通过把我们放在极端的情况下来欺骗我们。那么，我们必须否认塑造了我们的过去吗？户外和玫瑰一起给我们答案。

诗文

"Despite the risks, we stand at the brink of vertigo on the edge of a cliff weathered by salt water, entrusting our fate to what awaits us. Whether we tread on dangerous ground or lose sight of the way, rose stays true to itself and oud overpowers all else!"

“尽管有风险，我们还是站在被咸水风化的悬崖边缘，把我们的命运托付给等待着我们的东西。无论我们是踩在危险的地面上，还是看不见道路，玫瑰都忠于自己，压倒一切！”

L'INNOMMABLE 难言之隐 2018

香调：东方调

气味：安息香脂孜然

属性：中性香

标签：清新辛辣树脂温暖辛辣琥珀动物

创作灵感

Every Serge Lutens paradox brought together in a single perfume. A unique encounter and an unsettling manifesto that only the skin can reveal.

每一个芦丹氏悖论都汇集在一种香水中。一个独特的遭遇和一个令人不安的宣言，只有皮肤才能揭示。

诗文

"What you conceal will speak for you. My benzoin is Siamese, but its lifeblood is a caraway seed."

“你所隐藏的东西都会替你讲话。我的安息香是暹罗的，但它的命脉是葛缕子。”

CUIR MAURESQUE 摩尔皮革 1996

*原黑标方瓶/吊钟系列

香调：皮革调

气味：麝香橙花雪松琥珀肉豆蔻公丁香肉桂安息香焚香橘子没药麝猫香葛缕子皮革沉香(乌木)

属性：中性香

调香师：Christopher Sheldrake

标签：树脂温暖辛辣皮革动物清新辛辣琥珀

创作灵感

On leaving Andalucia, the Moors claimed they were leaving paradise behind. What they left behind was in fact an iconic fragrance, an elegant, sophisticated leather tanned on acacia bark, which takes us back to a past rich in conquests, culture and refinement.

在离开安达卢西亚时，摩尔人声称他们已经离开了天堂。事实上，他们留下的实际上是一款标志性的香水，一种优雅、精致的皮革被金合欢树皮鞣制而成，它把我们带回了一个丰富的征服、文化和优雅的过去。

诗文

"Back when the Moors occupied Cordoba, leather acquired a particular odor: animal hides were tanned using acacia bark."

“当摩尔人占领科尔多瓦岛时，皮革散发出一种特殊的气味：兽皮被金合欢树皮晒黑。”

MUSC KOUBLAI KHAN 忽必烈 1998

*原吊钟系列

香调：西普调

气味：麝猫香劳丹脂琥珀玫瑰葛缕子黄葵广藿香麝香香草

属性：中性香

调香师：Christopher Sheldrake

标签：麝香琥珀动物脂粉树脂花香

创作灵感

Evocative of China and its splendour during the reign of the legendary Kublai Khan, this tribute to China, with echoes of gold, lacquer work and Khanbaliq smoking dens, reveals its silky outer layer in a multitude of singular stages.

中国和传奇的忽必烈统治时期的辉煌，与黄金、漆制品和汗巴里克吸烟室的回声，在许多独特的阶段展现了它丝般的外层。

诗文

"Valuable furs were spread for the Emperor of China to tread on, muddy boots and all"

“珍贵的毛皮为中国皇帝铺展开来，等待着他去用泥泞的靴子或者什么来践踏。”

FUMERIE TURQUE 土耳其烟馆 2003

*原吊钟系列

香调：东方调

气味：蜂蜜杜松子零陵香豆洋甘菊广藿香香草玫瑰红醋栗烟草安息香绒面革

属性：中性香

调香师：Christopher Sheldrake

标签：甜烟草树脂蜂蜜浓郁

创作灵感

Secreted behind the screens of the Topkapi harem, Murad IV’s favorites and courtesans smoke long sculpted pipes, blowing smoke curls to pass the time; a contest of patience to create the most evocative curls which may hint at their destiny. Soft tobacco combines with the delicious scent of opiates, inviting you into the harem of the Great Lord of Istanbul.

在托普卡皮后宫的屏幕后，穆拉德四世最喜欢的宠儿和妓女们抽着长长的烟斗，吹着烟卷来打发时间；一场耐心竞赛，创造出最具人共鸣的卷发，可能暗示着他们的命运。柔软的烟草结合了阿片类药物的香味，邀请你进入伊斯坦布尔大主的后宫。

创作诗文

"Smoking can kill you"

“吸烟会害死你的”

【木质和西普】

CHÊNE 橡木酒香 2004

*原吊钟系列

香调：木质调

气味：葛缕子雪松橡木朗姆酒桦木百里香不凋花蜂蜡零陵香豆

属性：中性香

调香师：Christopher Sheldrake

标签：木香浓郁皮革烟熏朗姆酒

创作灵感

A symbol of royalty, the oak tree was very important in France’s history. They were all felled during the French Revolution but Serge Lutens has used rum absolute to recreate this exceptional, iconic woody note to add a comforting and elegant masculine element.

橡树是皇室的象征，这橡树在法国历史上非常重要。他们都在法国大革命期间被击倒，但芦丹氏确实用朗姆酒重现了这种特殊的、标志性的木质音符，增加了一种舒适和优雅的男性元素。

诗文

"The French Revolution not only cut off the king's head, but cut down the emblematic oak... by inference, the king of trees."

“法国大革命不仅砍掉了国王的头，还砍掉了具有象征性的橡树……据推断，树之王。”

BORNÉO 1834 婆罗洲1834 2005

*原吊钟系列

香调：木质东方调

气味：广藿香白色花系小豆蔻白松香劳丹脂可可果

属性：中性香

调香师：Christopher Sheldrake

标签：温暖辛辣广藿香可可豆木香树脂

创作灵感

A symbol of royalty, the oak tree was very important in France’s history. They were all felled during the French Revolution but Serge Lutens has used rum absolute to recreate this exceptional, iconic woody note to add a comforting and elegant masculine element. "The French Revolution not only cut off the king's head, but cut down the emblematic oak... by inference, the king of trees." Serge Lutens

橡树是皇室的象征，这橡树在法国历史上非常重要。他们都在法国大革命期间被击倒，但Serge Lutens用朗姆酒绝对重现了这种独特的、标志性的木质音符，增加了一种舒适和优雅的男性元素。”法国大革命不仅砍掉了国王的头，还砍掉了具有象征性的橡树……据推断，树之王。”Serge Lutens

（*是的这一段又是重复的）

诗文

"Why did I pick 1834? That was the year Parisians discovered patchouli. In those days, it came wrapped in silk."

“我为什么要选1834年？”那是巴黎人发现广藿香的那一年。在那些时候，它是用丝绸包裹起来的。”

【花香调】

TUBÉREUSE CRIMINELLE 罪恶晚香玉 1999

*原吊钟系列

香调：花香调

气味：茉莉橙花风信子晚香玉肉豆蔻公丁香安息香麝香香草

属性：中性香

调香师：Christopher Sheldrake

标签：白色花晚香玉花香树脂清新辛辣

创作灵感

Return the flowers to evil and, by corrupting their thick, milky petals, select from this poison cabinet the most controversial of all female figures: Catherine de Medici, Milady de Winter, Elizabeth Bathory... an eulogy to Lutens’ heroines!

把花朵还给邪恶，通过腐蚀它们厚厚的乳白色花瓣，从这个有毒的内阁中选择最具争议的女性人物：凯瑟琳·德·美第奇，米拉迪·德·温特，伊丽莎白·巴塞里……对芦丹氏女主人公的悼词！

诗文

"Baudelaire was right. Let's give the flowers back to evil"

“鲍德莱尔是对的。让我们把这些花还给邪恶吧。”

（*鲍德莱尔：法国诗人）

【mohair马海毛】

DE PROFUNDIS 幽暗深渊（深邃挽歌/深渊书简）2011

*原吊钟系列

香调：花香调

气味：紫罗兰绿叶土壤李子树菊花焚香

属性：中性香

调香师：Christopher Sheldrake

标签：绿叶木香脂粉花香草本泥土

创作灵感

With a satirical nod to death and the associated pomp and ceremony, on a base of incense and chrysanthemum, a joyous cortege to the cemetery to meet the altar boys, priest and undertaker.

对死亡和讽刺的点头，以及相关的华丽和仪式，在香和菊花的基础上，一个欢乐的队伍来到墓地迎接祭坛男孩、牧师和殡仪馆。

诗文

"As long as I'm alive, so is my Death"

“只要我还活着，我的死也是如此”

LOUVE 母狼 2007

*原黑标方瓶/吊钟系列

香调：东方美食调

前调：杏仁果香

中调：麝香茉莉玫瑰

后调：琥珀香草树脂

属性：中性香

调香师：Serge Lutens

标签：杏仁果香坚果甜树脂

创作灵感

An iconic creature since the mists of time, here the she-wolf retains her mystery, tainted with an almond bitterness. A singular, white enigma, a solitary figure at the top of her snow castle.

作为一种时代迷雾中的标志性生物，母狼保留着她的神秘，带着杏仁的苦味。一个奇异的白色难解之谜，一个孤独的身影在她的白雪城堡的顶端。

诗文

"Her name is Woman, Mother and She-Wolf. Her heart is a white almond"

“她的名字是女人、母亲和女狼。她的心是一颗白杏仁。”

SERGE NOIRE 黑色赛吉 2008

*原吊钟系列

香调：东方调

气味：广藿香肉桂琥珀木质香焚香公丁香辛香料黑檀

属性：中性香

调香师：Serge Lutens, Christopher Sheldrake

标签：温暖辛辣木香树脂烟熏桂皮

创作灵感

Serge was used to make cassocks and school smocks. It is a twill weave whose name has since been given to the man who dedicated himself to all things feminine. An ethereal woodiness with a smoky sillage, therein lies its ambiguity.

赛吉被用来制作紧腰袜和校服。这是一种斜纹编织，它的名字后来被命名给了一个献身于所有女性事物的人。一种飘渺的森林和烟雾弥漫的寂静，其中在于它的模糊性。

诗文

"My first name is the name of a fabric. It strikes the right note for this fragrance. In a similar vein, nothing can capture this scent’s spirit better than subtle "snapshots" from the past, like a forgotten glove lying on an antique chair. Incense stirred by the smell of burnt wood."

“我的名字是一种织物的名字。这是这种香味的最佳亮点。同样，没有什么比过去的微妙的“快照”更好的了，就像一把古董椅子上被遗忘的手套更能捕捉到这种气味的精神了。烧焦的木头的气味激起了熏香。”

【本期完】

PS. 给看完不投蕉的小可爱厕纸上滴风油精哟~[emot=zt,5xhjdfiaqhaw2hg/]

Reference List

芦丹氏英文官网, Retrieved from： https://www.sergelutens.com/eur/perfumes/toutes-les-collections.html

香水时代中文官网, Retrieved from ：https://www.nosetime.com/

【香水】芦丹氏的暗黑文案从哪来（3）——【摩天楼系列】